"We care about sustainability!" is written in giant letters. I'm at InCosmetics 2024, surrounded by the latest 'green' innovations. "How wonderful!", I say to the person at the booth. "How does that care manifest in your actions over the past year?" The silence speaks volumes.

This situation illustrates the current cosmetics industry. While 'natural' and 'sustainable' seem to be the new standard, the supply chain is complex and opaque. R&D teams and buyers are inundated with ingredients pitched as 'green' or 'eco', but often lack the time to dig deeper than the marketing promises.

I vividly remember what it was like. As a former developer and producer, I know how overwhelming it can be. You want to make the right choices, but there's so much on your plate. Investigating every ingredient in detail? There is simply no time for that. I can't ignore my intuition when something isn't right, but rarely had the space to really dive in. Yet that's exactly what's needed to take real steps towards sustainability. Because how can you make better choices if you don't see the full picture?

Why now?

Ten years ago, when I started in natural cosmetics, 'sustainable' was a nice-to-have. Now the industry is at a tipping point. The EU is forcing companies to substantiate their sustainability claims. Consumers no longer accept greenwashing. Social media makes every misstep immediately visible.

The most telling thing is the growing awareness that certificates and quality marks alone aren't enough. I've experienced it: an ingredient with all the 'right' certificates turned out not to be as sustainable when asked further.

This reality calls for a new approach. One that looks beyond marketing promises and compliance checklists. Where we take the time to truly understand where ingredients come from, how they’re produced, and their impact on people and the planet.

The researcher’s role

"How do you know all this?" a colleague once asked, after I saw through a great marketing pitch. The answer is simple: I keep asking questions. Like a detective who doesn't stop at the first 'no' or 'I don't know.' A cosmetics industry researcher is more than a claims checker or data collector. They see patterns, make connections, and keep asking where others stop.

As a developer, I learned that expertise alone isn’t enough. You need insatiable curiosity to look beyond what’s on paper and ask what’s not said.

A researcher can examine supply chains for hidden greenwashing and verify ingredient claims beyond marketing slogans. They can identify opportunities for genuine sustainability and share insights to help the sector become more sustainable.

Moving forward together

Someone recently asked if the research into the industry's issues makes me cynical. The opposite is true. By digging deeper, I see where the real opportunities lie. Where companies and people with integrity drive significant change.

Real sustainability requires more than good intentions. It requires professionals who deviate from 'business as usual', work on real change with integrity, dig deeper, ask critical questions, and share knowledge.

Ready to look beyond the surface? I’m building a Knowledge Hub, where I share new insights and discoveries to help you make better choices for people and the planet. Only by sharing knowledge and learning from each other can we transform the industry.